Chains Untangled: A Quick Guide to Choosing the Right Chains
- Mandira Das

- Jun 13, 2021
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 29, 2021
Chains are an integral part of much of our jewelry. There are many varieties available in the market in different materials, styles, and sizes. Do you know what to consider when selecting your jewelry? We have some recommendations!

STYLE
Chains come in many styles, such as cable, curb, anchor, rope, box, wheat, omega, snake, ball or bead, and more. Choosing between them can sometimes be confusing. How do you know which one is better? It depends on how it will be used!
There are mainly 2 broad types of chains: closed link and non-closed link. There is quite a bit of difference between these types in terms of sturdiness and durability.
Closed-link chains- Durable
For closed link chains, the components are welded and closed. Cable, curb, anchor, rope, rolo, box, wheat, Singapore, etc. are examples of the closed link type. They are all quite sturdy. If there is some damage caused by an accidental pull or under excessive force, they are mostly easy to fix. These sty[es are great for everyday or frequent use. The chains of twisted looks like rope, wheat, Singapore, etc. are very attractive as they reflect light a lot by their design. However, thinner types of chains can get tangled with hair at the back of the neck.
Non-closed link chains-Weak
The styles like snake, herringbone, serpentine, omega chains belong to the non-closed link type. They all have a distinct look and are very popular too. They all contain smooth, thin metal components joined closely side by side which gives them a smooth shiny appearance. Their flexibility is limited causing them to dent and warp easily, which can lead to breakage. They are not easy to repair and some are not repairable at all. Ball or bead chains also belong to this category. This type of chain contains tiny, narrow bars to hold metal beads together which can get damaged or break easily.
At Mira Creations, we only use closed-link type chains, which are more durable and safe for pendants.
SIZE
Chains can come in different thicknesses. Thicker chains and snake chains look great on their own. However, if you would like to use the chain with a pendant, thinner ones look better. If you like to get a pendant with your chain, make sure it is sturdy enough to take the load of the pendant.
LENGTH
There are lots of choices in the market starting from 16 inches. 18" is the most popular length for women. For a certain look or personal comfort, you can choose longer chains like 20", 22", 24" or even longer. If you are not sure which length would suit you the most, you can check here for guidance.
MATERIAL
Chains can vary in price when they are made of expensive platinum or inexpensive alloy.
Platinum
Pros: Very durable, do not tarnish, no allergic reaction
Cons: Very expensive, can get scratched
Gold
Pros: The best material for continuous use as it does not tarnish easily; very low chances of getting an allergic reaction (18K or higher grade) as they have every little additive. Rhodium plating can be done to reduce the chance of getting an allergic reaction from a lower grade gold.
Cons: Expensive; can get an allergic reaction from 14K or lower grade gold
Silver
Pros: Versatile with all kinds of outfits; more affordable
Cons: Pure silver is too soft to make jewelry and needs to be mixed with other metals to give it the right kind of malleability. Silver can also tarnish quickly from exposure to air and some skin types.
Sterling Silver or 925 Silver (92.5% silver with copper additives)
Pros: Versatile, more durable than pure silver; easy to create designs, which makes it popular with jewelers and customers alike. Rhodium plating can be applied to save allergic skin.
Cons: Can tarnish over longer periods; not great for use for a prolonged period; can give allergic reaction from copper additives.
Copper, brass, stainless/surgical steel, gunmetal, other alloys
Pros: Versatile designs and styles, attractive and unique looks, great for occasional use, very affordable, may be gold or silver plated for a more expensive look at a cheaper price
Cons: Some people may be allergic to some metals or alloys. Pure copper or copper alloys like brass can tarnish and can create 'green skin' at the contact point from prolonged use.
Gold or silver plated
Pros: Looks expensive at a cheaper price, protect allergic skin
Cons: The plating will wear off after a period.
If you are on a tight budget and planning to wear them only occasionally, go for copper, brass, stainless steel/surgical steel or different alloys. These chains can be available as gold plated or silver plated which gives an expensive look at a cheaper price!
All jewelry can tarnish, starting from gold. Over a period jewelry will lose its shine, the pace depending on the amount of additives in it. It can also vary from person to person depending on their skin type. Rhodium plating can slow down tarnish and save sensitive skin. Another major issue is care. If you take care of your jewelry they will keep their shine longer. Click here for more detailed guidance on jewelry care.
ALLERGY OR SENSITIVITY TO METAL
If you have sensitive skin, you have to be very careful about choosing the material.
Look for: Platinum and gold in 18K or a higher grade are safe for you.
Avoid: Gold in 14K or lower, silver, sterling silver, which all contain copper, zinc, palladium, tin, nickel, etc. as an additive. Some of these metals, especially nickel, trigger allergic rash.
A bit of compromise can be done with a 24K gold plated or silver plated chain. The plating will save you from an allergic reaction as long as they don't wear off. For moderate to mildly sensitive skin you can use 14K or lower grade gold, sterling silver, 24K gold plated or silver plated, so long as you are not wearing them continuously. Prolonged contact with these impurities can trigger allergic reactions.
If you are in the lucky group of people with non-sensitive or very mildly sensitive skin you can choose anything you want. But copper, brass or any type of alloy metal jewelry are meant for occasional use. Prolonged use can give you 'green skin'. Sweat, moisture, cleaning product or cosmetics can react with copper which is added to these alloys. Even sterling silver can give you the green color as copper is added in a tiny portion to strengthen it.
RECAP
For durable, frequent, and long-term use: choose chains that are closed link like, cable, curb, anchor, wheat, Figaro, rope, rolo, box, etc. in gold or platinum. Twisted chains like rope, wheat, Singapore look pretty, shiny, and durable too but prone to get tangled with the hair
For shorter uses or special occasions: freely choose chains which appeal to you that are non-closed link like herringbone, snake, serpentine, ball or bead chain in any material of your choice if you don't have any allergic issue with any metal.

























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